As gourmet readers will know Waitrose does not sell foie gras – traditionally made in France from the unhealthily swollen livers of force-fed geese or ducks – and launched an ethical alternative a few years back.

Faux Gras is a Waitrose Christmas product made from the livers of normally-fed birds blended with duck, goose and chicken fat, and cream, to give the final product the creamy, fatty liverishness much prized by fans of the cruel stuff, many of whom will love the taste but not the guilt, like the author.

This Christmas we decided to see if we could do without foie gras entirely and organised a personal tasting of Foie Gras De Canard (Duck), Waitrose Goose Faux Gras, claimed by the Waitrose press office to be “a fraction of the cost” of foie gras, and our favourite Sainsbury’s Duck and Orange pate, made in Belgium with lots of pork fat blended with 20% duck liver, 11% chicken liver, pork and pork rind, cream and orange/orange liqueur. With a simple tasting score out of 10 based on our own view the results were as below, with prices paid.

o Foie Gras De Canard, France, bought from market stall outside Waitrose at the Angel, Islington for £8.50 for 200 grammes, or £42.50 a kilo
Taste Score 9

o Waitrose Goose Faux Gras, UK, bought from Waitrose at the Angel, Islington for £8 for 175 grammes, or £45.70 a kilo
Taste Score 9

o Sainsbury’s Duck and Orange Pate, Belgium, £1.40 for 170 grammes, or £8.24 a kilo. (Note. With special promotions/vouchers this is often available for £5 a kilo)
Taste Score 8

Think we’ll be sticking with the Saisbury’s stuff more in future…